Why is some gold bright orange and soft enough to bite, while other gold is pale, hard, and resistant to scratches? The answer lies in the **Carat system** (often spelled 'Karat' in the US). It is the international standard for measuring the proportion of pure gold in an alloy.
The Math of Purity
The word "Carat" comes from the Carob seed, which was used in ancient times as a weight balance. The system is based on a total of **24 parts**.
- 24 Karat (24k): 24 out of 24 parts are gold. This is 99.9% pure ("Three Nines") or higher.
- 18 Karat (18k): 18 parts gold, 6 parts alloy. This is 75% pure gold.
- 14 Karat (14k): 14 parts gold, 10 parts alloy. This is 58.3% pure gold.
- 9 Karat (9k): 9 parts gold, 15 parts alloy. This is 37.5% pure gold.
Why Alloy it at All?
Pure 24k gold is **exceptionally soft**. If you wore a 24k wedding ring every day, it would warp, dent, and eventually wear down to nothing. To make gold practical for jewelry, we mix it with "hard" metals like copper, silver, zinc, and palladium.
24k Bullion
Best for wealth storage and investment. It doesn't tarnish and carries the lowest premium over spot price. Not suitable for heavy-duty jewelry.
18k & 14k Jewelry
The "Goldilocks" zone. Strong enough to hold diamonds securely, yet high enough in gold content to retain its value and distinct yellow luster.
The Color Alchemy
By changing the metals we mix with gold, we change its color.
- Yellow Gold: mixed with silver, copper, and zinc. This is the traditional "classic" look.
- Rose Gold: mixed with a higher percentage of copper. The more copper, the redder the gold.
- White Gold: mixed with palladium or nickel. It is usually plated in **Rhodium** to give it that brilliant silver shine.
Look for the Hallmark
Legally, nearly every gold item must be stamped with a "Hallmark" indicating its purity. In Europe and the UK, this is often a three-digit number representing the parts per 1,000:
- 375 = 9k
- 585 = 14k
- 750 = 18k
- 916 = 22k
- 999 = 24k
Digger's Tip
When fossicking in old mining districts, you may find "natural gold." Natural nuggets are rarely 100% pure. They usually range between **85% and 95% purity** (20k to 23k), having been alloyed in the ground with silver and iron over millions of years.
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